Spring 2006 Trend: Neutral Colors

Neutral Colors at Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, and Derek Lam.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: High.

How to Wear It: Spring 2006 was reminiscent of mid 1990s Calvin Klein in its bringing of neutral colors back to the fashion forefront. White, black, grey, beige, tan, and sand became dominant colors--rather than supporting players complementing more vibrant shades. Whites look exceedingly fresh, albeit hard to wear while keeping clean (Scotchgard to the rescue!). Blacks continue their reign of popularity from the Fall 2005 season, though the color is more than a bit harsh for springtime. Shades of grey are perhaps the most wearable, and light grey looks particularly stylish with orange and yellow shades. Sand, which proved to be one of the most important colors of the season, is easy not only to wear alone, but also to combine with other colors. Pair sand with oranges, yellows, and greens.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Neutral colors have provided the color foundation for wardrobes since the beginning of fashion history--this trend should truly be classified as a classic. However, this season really highlighted the possibility in working with a neutral palette, a complete reversal from the vivid color imagery from the last few years.

Spring 2006 Trend: 1960s Innocence

1960s Innocence at Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, and Derek Lam.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: The youthquake and innocence of the Swinging 60s was evoked by babydoll dresses, tent dresses, high-waisted sheath and A-line looks, Jackie O style oversized sunglasses, colorblocking, cutouts, and the elegantly oversized overcoat. Keep your look modern by including no more than two (and preferably just one) of these elements in any given look. Remember, it's 2005--not 1965.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Fashion's eternal fascination with decades past, combined ith the new decade's push for eclecticism and individuality means that we'll be seeing modern takes on 1960s styles for some time. The 60s aren't really anything new--this trend resurfaced on the runway in a big way for Fall 2003 with Marc Jacobs' colorful mod-inspired collection.

Spring 2006 Trend: Waistline Emphasis

Waistline Emphasis at Betsey Johnson, Carolina Herrera, and Jenni Kayne.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: Get the look with thick belts, yokes, and other forms of waistline detailing. This trend is great for boyish body types, as it helps to create the illusion of a waistline. Avoid this trend if you have a large tummy, as it will direct attention towards your midsection.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: While the idea of focusing on one's waistline is definitely not new, it's been given a new lease on life this season. We expect to see this trend at least for the next few seasons.

Spring 2006 Trend: Preppy Minimalism

Preppy Minimalism at Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, and Carolina Herrera.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: High.

How to Wear It: Embrace your inner East Coast preppy side with cardigans (both shrunken and oversized), layered pullovers, tees, and sport shirts, sweatercoats, and vests. Preppy Minimalism is easy to wear and friendly to all body types.

For a bit of flair, mix up your accessories. Pair a dressy outfit with casual flip flops, or match your polo-and-shorts look with a statement necklace.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: This trend should truly be classified as a classic--think of Ralph Lauren's timeless style.

Spring 2006 Trend: Bright Yellow

Bright Yellow from Betsey Johnson, Behnaz Sarafpour, and United Bamboo.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: Mimic the warmth of the sun with the addition of bright yellow to your wardrobe. The color looks especially fresh paired with orange, white, or a spring green. Fair skin tones should steer clear of pale yellows and go with a more vibrant shade so as not to look washed out. Beware of yellow on Asian skin; choose darker or more vibrant shades. On darker skin tones, however, yellows of all shades are extremely flattering.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Shades of yellow have been on the fashion scene over the last few seasons, but this season's emphasis on the color reflects a larger move towards more pastel shades.

Spring 2006 Trend: Floral Prints

Floral Prints from Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, and Tuleh.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: Large floral prints work well for statement pieces--a breathtaking dress, a fun tote bag, or a stunning skirt. For best results, keep these large floral prints in two, or maximum three, colors. For smaller floral prints, you can afford to include more colors. Smaller prints also tend to work on more petite women, as they don't overwhelm small frames.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Early, though this floral trend is a logical outgrowth of fashion's larger movement towards natural colors, fabrics, and prints.

Fashion Week Notebook | Calvin Klein

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Ethereal 1960s chic for the modern woman. Some looks evoked the ladylike Jackie O, while others appeared more fit for Twiggy. Graceful fashions for the modern elegant.

Color Palette: Predominantly white and cream, with black, beige, and light grey. Jolts of color were added with bright blues, greens, and yellows.

Silhouettes: High waistlines, babydoll dresses, and A-line shapes. Necklines were either high on the neck or strappy and low. Dresses were beautifully draped and tailored, and many featured the idea of controlled volume. Coats were oversized, and they were matched with Jackie O-inspired embellished sunglasses.

Accessories Report: The notable accessory of the show was the embellished sunglasses.

What’s Wearable: Almost everything. We loved the 60s style big coats, the babydoll dresses, and the unexpected patterned fabric that was integral to the show’s success.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: A particularly blousy dress with an exaggerated lapel. It even made the model look chubby.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Channeling Jackie O:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Emporio Armani Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: For his Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio moved into slightly feminine territory with gauzy scarves and see-through shirts, along with deep-v tunics and wrap shirts. Interesting on the runway, but these items feel more aesthetic than commercial.

Color Palette: Along with beige, white, brown, grey, and black, the collection featured a purple-tinged blue, purple-tinged grey, as well as bits of purple and orange.

Silhouettes: Loosely fitted shapes. Mostly straight-legged pants and shorts, with close-fitting tops. Jackets and blazers added to the slight looseness of fit.

Accessories Report: Skinny ties, gauzy scarves, sunglasses with a thick nose bridge, and dogtag-inspired necklaces. Right on trend, Armani played up the importance of the waist with belts and waistline detailing on pants.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Blazers with slightly more cropped sleeves, a nod to geek chic. Utility inspired jackets, drawstring pants, and the on-trend double-breasted jackets.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: See-through shirts, wrap shirts, and unstructured, drapey pants (unless they’re for sleepwear).

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Emphasis on Waist

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Style Intelligence Report covers the 2005 Emmy Awards

Though we've been busy Obsessively covering Fashion Week, we haven't forgotten about last weekend's 2005 Emmy Awards.

Check back this weekend for our Best Dressed and Worst Dressed lists, featuring not only photos of the celebs, but also our reasoning for why the looks worked...or not!

Fashion Week Notebook | Gucci Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Gucci went prep-school chic for Spring 2006. Cardigans, pullovers, and blazers, all far far away from the playboy image created by Tom Ford.

Color Palette: Black, white and cream dominated the collection. Shades of grey, beige, and touches of red accompanied these base neutrals.

Silhouettes: Tailored, fitted silhouettes. Layering played a key role in this collection, with multiple tops being layered over one another. Key items included pullovers, cardigans, double breasted blazers, sport shirts and drapey slacks.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: Attack of the Man Tote. Belts were also big with this collection, a nod to this season’s emphasis on the waistline. Suitcase trunks were reminiscent of old-school travel.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. The preppy cardigans and pullovers from Fall 05 will still be stylish come spring, albeit in lighter colors.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Tank Top (unless you’re an Italian gangster). The Man Tote was too feminine for the average male.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Double Breasted is Back!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Dolce and Gabbana Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: The flashy, luxury meets rebel collection could only have come from Dolce & Gabbana. Our take? One part Italian mobster, one part party animal. Key looks included skinny ties, screenprinted tees of vintage ads, and hardware detailing.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Color Palette: Dark, with black and grey dominating. Blue denim, white, crimson, olive, and beige lighten the palette.

Silhouettes: Skinny, fitted suits, hoodies layered under blazers, fitted motorcycle jackets, cardigans, drooping pants, knee-length cutoffs, and boxing shorts.

Accessories Report: Oversized sunglasses, dogtags, bucket hats, and beanies.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: We like the hoodie-under blazer look, though it’s not new. We also love the cropped motorcycle jackets.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Floral patterns in a tough-guy look. Also, keep the boxing shorts in the ring.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

White suits look just as fresh now as they did last spring!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Burberry Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Utility-inspired clothing fit for a jet-setting dandy. We loved the color combinations: mint green with saffron yellow, olive green with burnt orange, and a yellowed olive paired with salmon.

Color Palette: Neutrals and mainly pastels. Rose, mint, saffron, and burnt orange mixed with black, white, cream, and shades of beige and brown.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Closely tailored button-down shirts, snug sweaters, and belted jackets topped straight-legged pants and shorts.

Accessories Report: Caps, scarves, weekender totes, over the shoulder sling bags, and skinny bags. For utility, we like the weekender totes. For style, we Adore the skinny bags.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We loved the belted trenchcoats, fitted tops and jackets, as well as the prep-school meets James Bond look.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Short shorts (but you knew that one already). The only other questionable theme was the patchwork look.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Trenchcoat:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Duckie Brown

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Classic sportswear pieces in mainly solid colors. Patterns added for visual interest included dots, plaids, and stripes.

Color Palette: Red, peach, blue, coral, turquoise and green added eye-catching color to a base of black, white, grey, and beige.

Silhouettes: Mainly fitted shapes and layered looks. Some pieces (like this cardigan) were purposely oversized.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: Knit caps, sport sneakers, and the Man Tote.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was comprised of wearable looks. In particular, we liked the ¾ length coats, jackets with slightly shrunken arms, tuxedo shirts, and the pants creased just so.

What’s Not Wearable: Vinyl clothing. It may be functional if it’s raining, but even then, just get an umbrella. Also, the man tote looked awfully feminine.

The Layering Trend Continues:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | D Squared Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Dean and Dan Caten gave us their vision of an urban cowboy for their Spring 2006 collection. Mixing high and low elements, the twins adapted classic western wear for a more metropolitan environment.

Color Palette: Besides black and white, the Caten brothers focused on beige, browns, blues, yellows and reds.

Silhouettes: Close-fitting tops and bottoms. Straight legged pants, tailored suit jackets, body-hugging vests.

Accessories Report: Big belt buckles, bandanas, suspenders, skinny ties, shrunken ties, aprons, skinny belts, and the obligatory Cowboy hats.

What’s Wearable: Shrunken jackets, skinny ties and belts, suspenders, straight legged pants, and the combination of high and low elements (e.g. a tuxedo shirt with distressed jeans).

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Tread cautiously with the bandanas and the shrunken ties. And leave the aprons at home. As for oversized belt buckles—if the buckle is larger than your wallet, it’s too big!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Suspenders

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Alexander McQueen Menswear

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Alexander McQueen’s collection started off as slightly subversive and preppy/nautical-inspired, but by the end of the show, McQueen had moved all the way over to the land of the avant garde, with sequins, feathers, and capes.

Color Palette: White, Beige, Grey, Gold, Red, Purple, Blue and Black.

Silhouettes: Three piece suits, turned up shirt cuffs, knee-length shorts, double breasted jackets, man boleros, capes. McQueen showed both fitted, tailored looks and slightly more blousy garments.

Accessories Report: Baseball caps, sailor hats, socks pulled up to the knee, untied ties as scarves, belts, ties as belts, rope belts, flip flops, short ties.

What’s Wearable: Turned up shirt cuffs, ¾ length jackets (almost universally flattering on men, especially when tailored thin), ties as belts (seen this one before, but it’s quirky yet wearable),untied ties as scarves, three piece suits.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Bolero, Sequins and Feathers. Also stay away from capes unless you’re [insert the action hero of your choice here].

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Horizontal Stripes:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Eclectic collection touching on a number of themes from past seasons: ethnic & embellishment, military, and nautical, to name a few.

Color Palette: Neutrals were accompanied by yellows, oranges, mint green, and forest green.

Silhouettes: The big story here was belted looks. Gwen Stefani showed a number of long straight skirts on dresses, shorts hitting at the knee.

Accessories Report: Belts were huge. Also important were slouchy boots, belted boots, knit caps, and fedoras.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: We appreciated Stefani’s colorblocked drapey dresses in particular.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: See through dresses (clearly). Or being covered in logos from head to toe. Stefani’s collection was styled theatrically for dramatic effect—if you try any of these outfits head to toe, you’ll likely come off looking more like a fashion victim than fashion forward.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Interesting fabric manipulation:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Cloak (Menswear)

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Faux formal collection mixing high and low elements. Perfect for the urban man with a bit of an edge.

Color Palette: Purely neutrals, and predominantly black, with touches of white, beige, and greys.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Skinny, straight-legged pants and shorts paired with tailored jackets, shirts, and skinny ties.

Accessories Report: Boots!

What’s Wearable: Great detailing on the jackets, and they’re a natural addition to any stylish man’s closet. We also liked the double breasted cardigan sweater for an edgy take on prep school chic.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Jacket + Dress Shirt + Tie + Shorts. It’s a bit extreme for the normal man.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Nothing turns a look around quite like a ¾ length jacket:

Photo Credit: NY Metro