style intelligence report

Style Intelligence Report has moved to Omiru.com

2005-11-28T08:28:00.000-08:00

We've officially moved to Omiru.com! You'll be automatically redirected to our new site in 10 seconds. If you're still sitting here after 10 seconds, however, click here.

What’s new at Omiru.com? A complete redesign of the site—including better navigation and easier ways to contact us for story ideas, cool products, and anything else that’s on your mind.

We hope you enjoy the new site. And don't forget to bookmark Omiru.com for all the latest news and tips on style!

Your friends,

Susannah and Trisha

Trendscape: Raw Edging

2005-11-27T10:05:00.000-08:00

We love the frayed detailing that we've been seeing everywhere lately: It's feminine, yet just a tad rugged, and elegant without seeming too contrived.

ABS Pink Jeweled Cotton Tank | $105 at Bluefly

Banana Republic Rhinestone Chiffon Cuff | $19.99 at Banana Republic

Sequin Tank in Heather Pewter | $128 at J.Crew

Pearl and Silk Ribbon Necklace with Bead Charms | $395 at Kirna Zabete

Hengst Now Available Online

2005-11-25T23:33:00.000-08:00

Considering how impressed we were with Susan Hengst's collection at the Gen Art Fresh Faces fashion show, imagine our excitement when we discovered that one can now buy Hengst online!

Nymph top in Golden Peach | $210 at Style.com

Fashion at the Intersection of Art and Commerce

2005-11-25T10:59:00.000-08:00

One of the things that makes fashion particularly interesting is its position at the intersection of art and commerce. With one foot in the art world and the other solidly in the business world, there exists an inherent tension.

Unsurprisingly, the fear among the fashion community is that fashion is moving too far towards the side of commerce. Indeed, the last decade has seen the close of a number of haute couture houses, perhaps most notably that of Yves St. Laurent in 2002. But it's not just couture houses that are in danger. Teri Agins of the Wall Street Journal wrote in September:

"Mr. Lam has built a $4.8 million-a-year business but it has yet to reach the critical mass necessary to operate profitably and efficiently. Derek Lam Co. will lose money this year, as it has every year since it was formed in 2002, although Mr. Schlottmann declines to say how much.

Mr. Lam is part of a new generation of rising fashion stars struggling to follow the path to financial success blazed by American fashion icons such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Bill Blass. Handicapped by broad changes in retailing and manufacturing, these young designers are finding it difficult to capitalize on industry acclaim and turn a healthy profit."

Agins is right on the mark when she identifies the financial difficulties faced by designer ready to wear designers like Derek Lam. Lam's contemporaries--Zac Posen, Peter Som, and Behnaz Sarafpour, to name a few--are also feeling the tension between fashion as art and the need to make a buck.

Today's fashion marketplace is especially unfriendly to such designer ready to wear manufacturers. But why is this?

At the top of the fashion totem pole sits haute couture, where fashion as art reigns. With a steadily declining number of customers as patrons, couture is often "subsidized" by other divisions of a luxury house--fragrances, handbags, perhaps even ready to wear apparel. While couture isn't a great revenue generator, it can generate favorable PR, which intangibly helps other parts of a design house.

On the other edge of the market sits mass market fashion. Think of H&M, the Gap, Abercrombie and Fitch. Mall stores and the like that make their money on volume. However stylish their goods may be, they're primarily driven by commerce. At their core, they're not about a designer's artistic vision--they're about what will increase sales.

Between these two extremes lies designer ready to wear, the province of the up-and-coming fashion elite like Lam and Posen. Such designers are faced to walk the tightrope between art and commerce, and the end result all too often is failure. In the same WSJ article, Silas Chou, the former financial backer of Tommy Hilfiger who now backs Michael Kors, was quoted, "Out of all the 15 or so young designers, there will probably be just one that will make it and become a big name."

We don't pretend to have the answers here, and there are no established paths for upstart designers to follow, short of giving up (some) control of the company in exchange for outside money, which is in and of itself difficult to obtain.

Nevertheless, we do have hope for the future of fashion art, in spite of luxury conglomeration, regardless of the travails faced by developing designers, and in the face of the almighty dollar (or euro, RMB, or yen). Though intangible artistic merit is difficult to justify on a balance sheet, its value exists nonetheless...even if it's only in the hearts and minds of style philes like us.

Our Thanksgiving Thanks

2005-11-23T14:55:00.000-08:00

We're taking Thanksgiving Day off to be with our friends and families, but we'll be back on Friday to wrap up our Black Friday Blogging extravaganza with our take on fashion's unique spot at the intersection of art and commerce.

In the meantime, however, we wanted to thank you, our readers, for your continued patronage of our site. We sincerely hope that you enjoy what you find here, and we're working hard to make the site even better. And in that spirit, we welcome your comments, your ideas, and your musings.

Happy Thanksgiving, and see you on Friday!

With love,
Trisha and Susannah

The Best: Sequined Sweaters

2005-11-23T11:14:00.000-08:00

While sparkly knits have always been a popular option for the holidays, this year sequined sweaters have really been at the forefront. Besides being glitzy enough for a night on the town, they also happen to be a perfect alternative to the ubiquitous LBT at holiday parties.

Shine Sequin Stripe Sweater in Heather Grey | $132 at Nordstrom

Dolman Sweater in Copper | $99 at Bloomingdale's

ECI Sparkle Sweater Blazer in Silver | $148 at Nordstrom

Sequin Cardigan in Heather Pewter | $158 at J.Crew

Walter Pointelle Scoop Back Sweater in Gold | $231 at Nordstrom

Fashion as an Expression of Individuality

2005-11-23T09:18:00.000-08:00

In our own biased opinion, we consider fashion to be the ultimate visual expression of one's self. Consciously or unconsciously, your fashion (or anti-fashion) choices determine how you present yourself to the world...and therefore contributes to how the world sees you.

We believe that your individuality comes through in three ways:

What garments you choose,
How you choose to combine these garments, and
How you wear that garment combination.

The first of the three is the most obvious and shouldn't require much explanation. If you favor glamour, you might consciously pick a dramatic top or a slinky skirt. Or if you favor conservatism, on the other hand, you might choose a high-necked top and/or neutral colors.

How you choose to combine garments gets a little more interesting. You might, for example, make a statement by combining a flirty, feminine skirt with a masculine, military-inspired jacket. Or combining flip flops with a jet black suit. How you combine garments sheds more insight into who you are, but at a less conscious level.

But how you wear that garment combination is perhaps the most telling of all. You might wear the flip flops + black suit combination with a side of confidence. Or you might wear it with a sense of indifference. We believe your attitude is your most important accessory, and it beats a status handbag, a bewitching pair of pumps, and a sparkly diamond necklace any day of the week. But to our point, because it is the most unconscious of your fashion choices, the attitude with which you wear your outfit offers the most genuine view into who you are.

We're Moving!

2005-11-22T10:18:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers,

We want to give you a heads-up that we're going to be moving to a new and improved site beginning next Monday, November 28th.

Expect a redesigned site with better navigation, and nothing less than the quality editorial coverage we've always had!

We will be providing more info, including the new domain name, shortly. Stay tuned...

Thanks for reading!

XOXO

Susannah and Trisha

Susannah: Why Fashion Is Important to Me

2005-11-22T09:50:00.000-08:00

On a superficial level (pun intended), dressing chic might appear entirely self-serving. However, I believe fashion has made a greater impact on us as well.

I believe that dressing well indirectly makes me a better person. Clothes make me feel beautiful, while my sense of style allows me to feel unique. When fashionably dressed, I am reassured, more confident, and overall more likely to put forth my best that day. Even when I feel my worst, I can show self-respect by dressing myself well.

While I would like to say that I dress solely for myself, I also know I am judged and categorized by what I wear, and I use this to my advantage. I love that in the same week I can play vixen, bookworm, elegant sophisticate or trendsetter. I love the fact that my quirky selections may keep me from being stereotyped into one category. I love that my outfits reveal other facets of my personality that would otherwise go unnoticed. The exciting transformations that I get to make are what living for fashion is all about.

Susannah

Why Fashion is Important to Me

2005-11-21T07:55:00.000-08:00

On the most basic level, fashion is important to me because it makes me happy.

Among my interests are design and aesthetics, and fashion feeds both of these. I love line, silhouette, color, fabric, and construction. I love the look of a well-fitted garment. And I love combining garments to make a statement.

Fashion is my way of expressing to the world that I am me. I love that one day, I can "be" preppy, the next day sophisticated, the next day plain, and the next day glamourous. It's the easiest thing to change about your appearance. Plus it's non-invasive...a double plus on my list.

I find it intrinsically pleasing to dress up--and I dress for myself, first and foremost.

An added benefit, however, is the visual first impression that you give to others. It's been said that first impressions are mainly visual--that is, they depend less on what you say and more on how you visually present yourself. While I don't like this, my experience has shown this to be all too accurate.

Even when I'm shopping, for instance, I get radically different treatment from salespeople. If I'm dressed in flip flops, jeans, and a t-shirt, I often have to hunt salespeople down in order to make a purchase. If, on the other hand, I'm dressed in heels, a slim pencil skirt, and a nice top, I often can't shop in peace, receiving multiple offers for help.

Your thoughts? How does fashion make an impression on your life?

Trisha

Black Friday Blogging: Style Intelligence Archives

2005-11-20T23:55:00.000-08:00

We hunted through our archives for relevant articles on fashion, consumption, individuality, and the importance of fashion in our lives. For your reading pleasure, we present:

Enjoy!

Black Friday Bloggers

2005-11-20T21:35:00.000-08:00

Julie of Almost Girl invited us to join a "Black Friday" Blogging event. We're pleased to participate.

Check back this week for our thoughts on why fashion is important to us, fashion as art and commerce, and fashion and individuality.

Profiles in Style | Megan and Tyson

2005-11-19T23:53:00.000-08:00

Names: Megan and Tyson
Found: Patiently waiting outside H&M Powell, well within the first hundred people in line.
Arrived at H&M: "6am, but our friends got here at 4am."
At H&M for: Stella McCartney, of course. Megan: "The jumper and the jeans." Tyson: "The men's dress shirt that was transformed into a dress."
Personal style: Megan: "I just throw on whatever's clean, whatever's comfortable." Adds Tyson: "I'm all about comfortable."
Last Words: Tyson: "No Uggs, no pajamas, no LV pochettes, no knit Uggs, no Jessica Simpson, no Ashlee Simpson, no ruffled miniskirts."

Thanks, Tyson. Couldn't have said it better ourselves.

H&M SF Grand Opening Madness

2005-11-19T23:41:00.000-08:00

Arrived at H&M Powell at 9am this morning to scope out the scene. Pure craziness. The line, as expected, snaked around the block, even zigzagging back and forth over on Geary.

We're not line people, so we just ended up hitting up H&M Post later that day once the line had died down to a mere half-block. Saw some interesting items (mostly left only in Large sizes), but we saw a good amount of the merchandise a couple of months ago on our NYC/Boston "working vacations."

What will Trisha be wearing to the office next week? A particularly cute grayed jersey blazer with clipped seams ($29.90).

Our good friend Goldie made a comment about the expectant crowd: "The people waiting fall under one of three categories: (1) The Uber-trendy people who decked themselves out for the grand opening, (2) The Blah people who dressed very plainly, and (3) The Frighteningly dressed people whose outfits didn't quite make it."

To see a particularly uniquely dressed example from Category 1, check back in a bit for another episode of "Profiles in Style!"

H&M SF Grand Opening Giveaway

2005-11-18T12:08:00.000-08:00

In case you hadn't already heard, H&M San Francisco is giving 20% off to the first 200 customers at either store along with a free limited edition T-shirt.

However, to be in that lucky 400, we figure that we'd either (1) have to drag ourselves out of bed pre-dawn to line up, or (2) sell our souls to the fashion devil (A.Wintour?).

We'll be there...but closer to 10am. We enjoy our beauty sleep.

Friday Fashion Hotlist | 11.18.05

2005-11-18T06:52:00.000-08:00

Issue XVII of the Friday Fashion Hotlist: a weekly compilation of the cutest and coolest stuff Style Intelligence Report saw out there this week.

This week, in honor of tomorrow's grand opening of H&M's first West Coast store in San Francisco, we present to you comfortable, stylish shoes for our all-time favorite sport: shopping.

Between standing for hours on end in line and speed shopping the venerably cheap chic racks at H&M, shopping might as well be a sport. In any case, we bet that the fashionistas around the Stella McCartney displays will be engaging in some sort of contact sport by the time the clothes are gone.

For women...

Adidas Okapi Shoe | $64.95 at Nordstrom

Stylish, functional, and comfortable--what's not to love about this shoe?

And for men...

Prada Car Shoe | $304 at Bluefly

Love the two tone white and tan, with the green accents. And the side grommets give this casual shoe a dose of extra flair.

Home Shopping: Best of Crate and Barrel

2005-11-17T06:59:00.000-08:00

In the spirit of the holiday redecorating season, we present our top picks for home accents from Crate and Barrel. Perfect for a quick pick-me-up for your home!

Ricci Room Divider | $599 at Crate and Barrel

Oleander Centerpiece Bowl | $149 at Crate and Barrel

Lagoon Vases | $19.95-$26.95 at Crate and Barrel

Long Rectangular Curved Wood Tray | $34.95 at Crate and Barrel

Kali Square Tray | $59.95 at Crate and Barrel

Jasper Vase | $38.99 at Crate and Barrel

Zeno Vase | $59.95 at Crate and Barrel

Buri Rope Balls | $5.95-$7.95 at Crate and Barrel

Trendscape: Grecian

2005-11-16T08:51:00.000-08:00

How to feel like a Greek goddess:

Step 1: Slip on slinky, form-fitting yet irresistibly comfortable jersey piece...

Jill Stuart 'Natasha' in Slate Blue $177 at Bluefly

Strapless Dress with Sequins $297 at ABS

Sean by Sean Combs Slinky Jersey Top $175 at Girlshop

Tufi Duek Pintuck Pleated Sleeveless Top in Wine $138 at Bluefly

Step 2: Make yourself an ambrosia cocktail (the drink of the gods).

Step 3: Strut your stuff.

Of the Moment: Shirred Strapless Dress

2005-11-15T22:37:00.000-08:00

A certain garment has been spotted everywhere: the shirred satin/taffeta/chiffon strapless dress. Said dress was worn by Kirsten Dunst (in a beautiful Bottega Veneta version) for In Style's cover feature this month, and has been popping up in specialty stores nationwide. Get 'em while they're hot!

Sexy Strapless Dress | $199 at Club Monaco Stores

Teal Shirred Strapless Dress | $264 at ABS

Satin Strapless Dress in Mulberry Lane | $148 at Banana Republic

The Best: Cheap Chic Womenswear

2005-11-15T09:00:00.000-08:00

After all of our discussion about the democratization of fashion, we thought it would only be appropriate to do a spread on cheap chic. The items below are the perfect way to update your wardrobe with the trends of the moment, from tuxedo jackets to bell sleeves to brocade skirts.

Metro7 Tuxedo Jacket in Black $28.94 at Wal-Mart

Flounce-cuff shirt in White $29.99 at Newport News

Polder Cotton Tote with Leather Detailing $69.99 at La Redoute

Isaac Mizrahi for Target
Houndstooth Jacket $34.99 at Target

Isaac Mizrahi for Target Brocade
A-Line Skirt in White Gold $24.99 at Target

Textured T-Strap Heels in Plum $59.99 at La Redoute

Design as the New Frontier for Marketing

2005-11-14T06:38:00.000-08:00

AdWeek magazine is reporting that design is the new frontier for marketers:

"In the past five years, design has climbed to the front of the American consciousness, and people not only expect form-beyond-function in public spaces, but they want stylish products to bring into their homes. As part of this new preoccupation, a growing number of clients are looking to design-centric brands for inspiration, specifically, Apple's small (and getting smaller) miracle. From the iPod's shape and size to its advertising, packaging and point of sale, it is a modern marketing marvel that other advertisers are looking to emulate."

Makes perfect sense, considering the intensely crowded product marketplace. When you're out shopping for a commodity good, like hand soap, what helps you make a decision on which product to buy?

Price? Maybe, if there were significant price differences, like one bottle for $5 and another for $2.
Quality? How can you really tell by looking at the product on the shelf? Also, if it's something like soap, where quality doesn't differ greatly between products, how important is the quality?
Brand? The brand might give me an indication of quality, and if it's a familiar one, it might give me a reassurance that the product is going to perform well. But what helps define the brand and make it memorable?

That's right--it's design.

In our humble opinion, design helps to elevate products--from portable music devices like the iPod to basic consumer packaged goods like soap--above the masses. Faced with so many choices, consumers (ourselves included) need quick, easy cues to help us make buying decisions. And great product design goes beyond providing those easy visual cues, as it also can make product use easier.

That's our two cents. What do you think?

What do you look for when making a product purchase? And does design play a role in your purchasing decision?

The Best: Status Bags You've Never Seen

2005-11-14T06:04:00.000-08:00

Birkin, Balenciaga, Botkier, Bulga...Anyone tired of hearing the same old status bag names over and over again?

We went on a recent handbag hunt to find a status bag that doesn't scream "I WANT TO BE COOL" but rather a purse that would garner quiet but notable attention and give off that "I'm money but way too classy to flash it in your face" feel. These purses may cost you a pretty penny, but they'll be worth it once everyone stops you to ask, "Whose bag are you wearing?"

Andrea Brueckner Large Saddle Bag
in Olive | $525 at Active Endeavors

Tory by TRB Velvet Logo Tote | $298 at Tory

Hayden-Harnett Lorca Flap Demi Bag
with Clyde Tassel in Bronze| $273 at Luna Boston

Paige Haircalf Hobo in Chocolate/Cream | $575 at Cole Haan

Friday Fashion Hotlist | 11.11.05

2005-11-11T07:55:00.000-08:00

Issue XVI of the Friday Fashion Hotlist: a weekly compilation of the cutest and coolest stuff Style Intelligence Report saw out there this week.

This week, we turned up an adorably cute dress (holiday party, anyone?) for women, and a biker-chic pair of men's pants.

For women...

Blue Chalet Dress | $188 at Anthropologie

We love (1) the perfectly-on trend (and generally flattering) color, (2) the pintucking, and (3) the beaded appliqué. Pair it with a cream colored shawl, and you'll be ready for an evening out on the town!

And for men...

Roman Kapadia "Pit Pants" | $259 at Guyshop

We're strong believers in the beauty in the Details, and by that measure, this pair of pants has beauty to spare. Between the grommets, the seam detailing, and the back zippers, Kapadia's "Pit Pants" strikes a balance between trendiness and utility.

Home Shopping: Best of Restoration Hardware

2005-11-10T08:11:00.000-08:00

We're huge fans of Restoration Hardware, having fallen in love years ago with their signature Silver Sage paint.

So in keeping with our Home Shopping mini-series, we shopped Restoration Hardware to bring to you the best home goods the store has to offer. We chose items that allow you to give your home a makeover not by changing its entire wardrobe, but rather by adding some choice accessories.

Presenting our top five "Quick Fix for the Holidays" picks:

Isabella Throw Maize | $69.99 at Restoration Hardware

A great-looking throw will spruce up any ho-hum couch. The Isabella throw is only available in Maize (the yellow color shown on the left), but it's discounted from an original price of $129. We like the garnet too, but the maize color works beautifully with a chocolate brown.

Hanover Bar Tool Set | $59 at Restoration Hardware

This bar tool set is perfect for parties, and it exudes a classiness reminiscent of 1930s Hollywood.

Convex Mirror | $129-$429 at Restoration Hardware

Distort reality with these simply fascinating mirrors. Small (19") is $129, Medium (23") is $329, and Large (32") is $429.

Memo Screen | $129.99 at Restoration Hardware

Great as a personal scrapbook + room divider, all in one! If you want something smaller scale, try the Memo Board instead.

Silk Taffeta Pillow Covers | $35-40 at Restoration Hardware

The striped pillow cover is $35, but the other two (medallion and damask) check in at $40. Pillow inserts are sold for $14.

Retail Trend: Cheap Chic Fashion, Part III

2005-11-09T18:58:00.000-08:00

We'll close this series with the line in the SF Gate article that we found particularly interesting. Lois Huff, senior vice president for Retail Forward, a market research firm, noted that "The idea of disposable as opposed to building a wardrobe is more popular now."

Interesting idea, but we don't think it's a black and white issue. As with everything in life, there are shades of grey, and while people certainly aren't meticulously building a static wardrobe, the average consumer is likely not replacing the entire closet each season (or every couple of seasons) with cheap chic clothes.

Our wardrobe advice? First build a solid foundation of good quality clothes. On top of that foundation, you can then have some fun with cheap chic, disposable fashion. Buy the cute, but cheap uber-cropped jacket that will last till the end of the season. Buy the slim tailored wool pants whose quality will elevate the look of everything you pair with it.

But know what to invest in and what to buy on the cheap, as that's the key to a balanced wardrobe.

Need help? That's what we're here for. Leave a message, or shoot us an email at styleintelligence at gmail dot com!

Retail Trend: Cheap Chic Fashion, Part II

2005-11-09T08:06:00.000-08:00

In Part I of this article, we discussed the basics of so-called cheap chic fashion: what it is, and why it's so appealing. Now that we have a background on why cheap chic is gaining popularity, we can discuss what it may mean from both a consumer and business perspective.

Consumer Perspective:

More clothes, less overall quality. Cheap chic, with its lower quality standards, leads to the wearing of clothes for a season or less, for so-called "disposable fashion."
Reinforced acceleration of trends. Fashion information is moving faster, and so are physical items of clothing. The average time it used to take between the start and end of a trend used to be measured in years. Now, fashion trends come and go in months.
Challenge: Keep up with the speed of fashion. Since fashion trends are now measured in months, not years, it's becoming increasingly difficult to keep up with the speed of fashion. More information sources will pop up (such as this blog) to keep people informed as to what's in and what's out.
Personal Style more important. As average consumers gain access to a larger number of garments and trends (due to the "cheap" in the chic), the idea of personal style is going to become more paramount. Now, anyone with a copy of Lucky magazine and access to H&M can deck themselves out head-to-toe in the latest trend. Is this true style? We think not. Fashion forward individuals will need to look for new means of expressing their style and individuality, be it through unique combinations of garments, status accessories, clothing alterations, or something else.
Importance of Editing. With so many trends flying around, one of the most important skills to have will be the ability to edit down the season's trends to those that fit one's personal style, lifestyle, and body type. Those that cannot or choose not to edit might fall under the...
New definition of "Fashion Victim." Fashion Victims have traditionally been those who slavishly follow trends. They might wear one designer head to toe, or they might combine two or more contrasting trends into one outfit. But a new classification will likely emerge: the fashion victim as one who hops along after each fast-moving trend, trying to wear each look before it goes out of style. She's the girl who doesn't just keep up with what's happening with fashion--she actually tries to wear Everything that's new and stylish.

Business Perspective:

Improved supply chains needed. Companies like Zara have long been proponents of a supply chain based on the idea of postponing each production decision to the last possible moment to preserve production flexibility. Why postponement? It allows the retailer to more accurately forecast demand for a particular style good. Estimating December demand for a wool coat, for instance, would be easier and more accurate to do in November than it would be in June.
Need to address human rights issue. Cheap comes at a price, and it's often at the cost of third-world garment workers. Sweatshops are an industrywide problem, unless something drastic is done, the human rights violations that they cause will likely only get worse with the growing popularity of cheap chic fashion.

Check back later today for our last post in this series, where we'll be touch on wardrobe building in an era of disposable fashion.

Retail Trend: Cheap Chic Fashion, Part I

2005-11-08T18:44:00.000-08:00

Thanks, Mat, for sending us an article from SFGate on cheap chic fashion.

Our first take? Interesting article, but while H&M might be bringing the cheap chic phenomenon to the fashion forefront in San Francisco with its November 19 opening, the idea is anything but new.

Forever 21, Zara, H&M, Mango, and others have been playing in this space for over a decade. However, it wasn't until 2000 that the US womenswear market got a real taste of the cheap chic trend, when H&M opened its doors in New York.

We've got a lot to say on the topic of cheap chic fashion, as it's near and dear to our hearts and closets. To make reading more manageable, we're going to split our thoughts into three posts.

In Part I, we'll go back to basics and discuss what cheap chic fashion is as well as why it's so appealing. In Part II, we'll dig deeper and tackle what cheap chic means from both a consumer and a business perspective. And in Part III, we'll touch on wardrobe building in an era of disposable clothing.

What is cheap chic fashion?
Just what it sounds like--moderate to discount priced clothing that, due to its trend value, quickly moves from the runway to production to the retail floor to consumers' closets. Clothing is generally merchandised from an item-based, rather than a collection-based perspective.

Retailers like H&M and Zara, who specialize in this cheap chic phenomenon, move new goods into the stores on a daily to weekly basis to replace the items being sold. From a business perspective, this means producing a greater variety of styles, but each in a lower quantity.

Consider it the opposite of the traditional retail model, which has a retailer like Gap producing a set collection for each season. Instead of item-based merchandising, we see items being sold as part of a greater collection. When consumers buy merchandise, the shelves are replenished with more of the same clothes. Here, there exists less variety in styles, but each style is produced in a higher quantity.

Why is cheap chic so appealing? Two reasons:

For one, it's cheap. You can afford to buy a greater variety and number of items. The inherent flexibility here, combined with the American create-your-own-look individualism is extremely powerful.
Secondly, it's a logical outgrowth of the acceleration of fashion information. We're getting our trend information faster and faster these days. We used to have to wait for fashion magazines to publish information on the latest runway shows. Now, with websites like NY Metro (same day coverage) and Style.com (next day coverage), the wait time is almost negligible. As fashion information moves faster, trends accelerate. The next logical step in the chain is for fashion garments themselves to move faster, and that's precisely what's happening through cheap chic fashion.

Shopping Guide: The Best Men's Coats

2005-11-08T07:13:00.000-08:00

Vintage Plaid Topcoat | $250 at Banana Republic

Great tailoring details--notched collar, center back vent, inner welt pocket, and a covered placket closure at center front. And you can't beat the price for this quality.

Theory "Delano" Long Coat | $795 at Nordstrom

Made of merino wool, this coat is soft, sleek, and streamlined. A great way to face the winter months.

Spiewak Nunatak Duffle Coat | $170 at Urban Outfitters

Toggle Coats Rock. But besides the toggles, we love the hoodie and the handwarmer pockets (great for shielding yourself from adverse weather) and the tailored seamlines.

Wool Military Coat | $195 at Armani Exchange

What can we say, Military is still Hot for Fall/Winter. We love the epaulets and the oversized pockets with hardware detailing on this coat.

G Star Ward P Coat | $290 at Urban Outfitters

This is a peacoat with an edge--and a distinctive look that makes it look like another coat genre altogether. We appreciate the wide collar and the foldover snap placket over the front zipper. Look for the rivet detailing on the side pockets and chest snap pocket.

Shopping Guide: The Best Man Bags

2005-11-07T08:29:00.000-08:00

Over the weekend, we searched high and low for the perfect men's mini messenger bag, a reader request from Mat.

To use Mat's description, we were looking for a small day bag that was, "Casual, but still clean, versatile and understated." We couldn't have said it better ourselves.

So without further ado, we're pleased to present to you our top four man bag options. Note that each comes in a variety of colors that ranges from classic to trendy--you're not limited to the colors shown here.

Flow Flap Body Bag | $95 at Tumi
Tumi has an entire line of "Flow" bags.

The Status Belly Bag | $50 at Crumpler Bags

Patrol Case | $395 at Jack Spade

Vertical Messenger | $80 at Jack Spade

Friday Fashion Hotlist | 11.4.05

2005-11-04T08:25:00.000-08:00

Issue XV of the Friday Fashion Hotlist: a weekly compilation of the cutest and coolest stuff Style Intelligence Report saw out there this week.

This week, we searched high and low for stylish, but utilitarian bags for work. Check out what we found!

For women...

Continental Carry All | $228 at Anthropologie

The straps, the hardware, the shape--we love everything about this bag. We think that the nipped in strapline gives this tote a little something extra. It's roomy enough to hold your papers, books, art supplies, cell phone, PDA, iPod...and it's stylish to boot!

And for men...

"Bring It" Tote | $200 at Kenneth Cole

We love both the strap detailing as well as the hardware elements. This tote perfectly complements the utility-conscious look of the season.

November 2005: What's In, and What's Out

2005-11-04T00:50:00.000-08:00

We're all over...

The complete Sex and the City series on DVD

Photo Credit: HBO

Why: Raise a cosmo to the future movie nights ahead!
(We already have one slated for this Saturday afternoon)

We're all over...
Tiered, ruffled column dresses

Pictured: Michael Kors Spring 2006

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Why: These tiered layers allow you to display your upbeat side
and are a far better alternative to the mass-produced prairie skirt.
Plus, it helps to know that they'll be here to stay 'til at least next spring.

We're So over: Fedoras

Photo Credit: E! Online

Why:
Warning: Strongly avoid unless you are either
a) Cameron Diaz
b) Cary Grant
c) Inspector Gadget

We're So over:
The folkloric Russian dirndl outfits

Photo Credit: E! Online

Why:
We're all for keeping abreast of trends
--just not blindly following them.
This kitschy theme is simply a bit overboard for us...

Home Shopping: Best of West Elm

2005-11-03T08:09:00.000-08:00

We found some great contemporary-looking pieces at West Elm. Our favorites?

Ceramic Vases | $88 at West Elm

From left: Textured Bulb Vase ($39), Oval Vase ($9), Textured Taper Vase ($24), and Pedestal Vase ($16).

Tumbleweed Print Pillow Cover | $34 each at West Elm

Note that the Pine Green/Glacier Blue colorway is sold out. Also, the accompanying pillow inserts are $16 each.

Tumbleweed Duvet Cover & Pillowcases | West Elm

Duvet cover ranges from $79 (Twin)-$119 (King). Pillowcases range from $29-$89, depending on color. What can we say, we just can't get enough of the tumbleweed!

Hanging Capiz | Set of 3 for $19 at West Elm

Great as an accent piece, but don't overdo it. The look should be contemporary, not dorm chic.

Modular Wall Shelving | Set of 2 for $79 at West Elm

We just Adore modular design. Form + Function = Fabulous!

WGSN: Fall/Winter 2007 Color Trends

2005-11-02T08:07:00.000-08:00

Worth Global Style Network also weighed in on color for Autumn/Winter 2006-2007, noting:

Growing importance of grey and brown.
Brown influencing yellow and green to create golden and olive toned colors.
Greens softening with saturated blues.
Cool colors from Teal to Violet growing in importance.

WGSN also made note of the mix we're seeing between nature and urban life. The return to natural colors like beige, brown, and green reflects the want to seek refuge in the natural world. On the other hand, techno fabrics (think of stain-resistant and other performance fabrics) reflect society's tendency towards innovation and the embrace of manmade creations.

Product photos courtesy of West Elm.

San Francisco International Fashion Week | Black Coffee

2005-11-01T19:45:00.000-08:00

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Background on Black Coffee: Black Coffee is the brainchild of designer Jacques van der Watt, who is known in his native South Africa for his mysterious yet feminine creations.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Key Takeaways: Black Coffee's collection made heavy references to traditional Japanese culture such as obi belts, kimono-style dresses and canvas flats.

Color Palette: Beige, taupe, black and white colors emphasized an Asian influence; some of these muted colors were contrasted with rich hues such as burgundy and red.

Silhouettes: The unusual cuts and lines of van der Watt's pieces helped to differentiate the label from many others. Black Coffee truly caught our eye with unusual takes on layering (a structured knee-length jacket paired with a flowy, asymmetrical skirt) and shape (tunics with three tiers of ruffles at the bottom).

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Accessories Report: Canvas slippers on the women; wooden beaded necklaces; printed obi belts; necklaces with coin-shaped pendants.

What's Wearable: Black Coffee proved that, despite overt ethnic references, this collection could still be wearable.

With this top, Black Coffee has truly gone full circle:

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

San Francisco International Fashion Week | Paul Munroe

2005-11-01T09:27:00.000-08:00

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Background on Paul Munroe: A former civil engineering student, Paul Munroe has been showing his designs on the runways of South African Fashion Week for the past six years. This show, which featured only menswear, was Munroe's US debut.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Key Takeaways: What this collection lacked in cohesiveness it compensated for with creativity. While we weren't quite sure how to describe the ensembles seen at the show (Urban thug? Eighties rockstar? Space cowboy?) we decided that perhaps the collection's inability to be labeled is part of its appeal.

Silhouettes: Baggy jeans, plaid pants and kilts, quilted nylon overalls, vests.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Accessories Report: We spotted leather piping, medallions and iron-on patches on everything--from the sides of a pants leg to the back of a vest--as well as pocket detailing and fabric-and-stainless steel belts.

What's Wearable: While many of Munroe's outlandish ensembles seem fitting for only the most extreme of alternative lifestyles (example: a sleeveless leather tank resembling a corset), each individual garment is interesting enough to worn as a stand-alone piece. We also liked the bomber jackets and baggy black jeans (our photographer boldly proclaimed: "I would definitely wear those.")

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Shopping Guide: The Best Men's Lightweight Jackets, Part II

2005-11-01T08:21:00.000-08:00

Part II of Style Intelligence Report's guide to Men's Lightweight Jackets.

We present to you Five stylish, semiformal jacket options. Whether you're looking for something basic, unique, sophisticated, comfortable, or edgy, we have a jacket for you!

Kenneth Cole "Boxcar" Coat | $129.99 (sale) at Macy's

For a sophisticated, minimalist look, this coat is perfect. Plus, it'll go with everything in your wardrobe.

Knit Blazer | $135 at Armani Exchange

Knit for comfort, but tailored for style. The collar detailing on this knit jacket made it a real standout.

Corduroy Blazer | $145 at Armani Exchange

No stylish man's closet is complete without a fitted corduroy blazer. We like this one for its cropped fit. The jacket looks great on tall men, but the cropped length also makes shorter men look taller.

Romain Kapadia Canvas Trench | $438 at Guyshop

Expensive, yes. But we adore this jacket's off-centered button detailing and the diagonal belt fastening. Truly standout detailing.

"Washed Up" Leather Jacket | $398 at Kenneth Cole

Slim fit, streamlined detailing, and washed leather. What's not to love about this jacket?

San Francisco International Fashion Week | Joseph Domingo

2005-10-31T17:00:00.000-08:00

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Lights, Camera, Action! Hot Chocolate's sixties hit "I Believe in Miracles" brightened the room as the show started off with swimwear such as plunging, space-dyed maillots for women, and super-short swim trunks for men in psychedelic citrus shades.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Key Takeaways: The show was full of references to nature, such as water-blue chiffon dresses, floral-print suits and jackets in earthy colors. Domingo also succeeded well in doing what he does best--couture gowns--as well as suits for women and edgy jackets for men. Overall, Joseph Domingo's show was one of the top highlights of SFIFW.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Silhouettes: In swimwear, plunging maillots for women and supershort trunks for men; Fitted skirt and pantsuits for women; boxy jackets for men, worn on a bare chest; deep-V dresses for women; flouncy cocktail dresses with tiered prairie skirts or accordion pleats for women. We loved the thoughtful details, like the green "leaves" that made up the sleeves of this dress:

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Accessories Report: Necklaces and bracelets made of clusters of resin beads; silver dagger necklaces (one of which Domingo himself wore); flower-shaped costume jewelry; glass beads. Models wore their hair long and loose.

One way to turn heads:

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Shopping Guide: The Best Men's Lightweight Jackets, Part I

2005-10-31T08:18:00.000-08:00

Part I of Style Intelligence Report's guide to Men's Lightweight Jackets, brought to you by the request of Mat.

We're splitting up this article into two sections because of the large number of great jackets we saw out there while perusing the racks. In this post, Part I, we present the best Casual jackets. In Part II, we'll bring to you the best in semiformal jacket options. Happy shopping!

Nylon Fill Jacket | $125 at Banana Republic

The quintessential fall weather jacket, with versions found at BR, Gap, Express, etc. year after year after year. Basic, but functional. The selling point? It works with everything in your wardrobe.

CK Jeans Bomber Jacket | $98 at Macy's

What can we say, we just love the look of bomber jackets on men (and women, for that matter).

Canvas Safari Jacket | $145 at Armani Exchange

What's great about this jacket? The oversized pockets (good for storing your keys, wallet, iPod, cell phone..), the drawstring waistline, the stand collar, and the tailored seamlines.

Avant Zip Up Track Jacket | $89 at Ben Sherman USA

Track Jackets are the New hoodie, remember? They're great for a sporty, youthful look. Plus, they're comfortable. We like the contrast striping on the arms on this jacket--a nice alternative to the standard across-chest striping.

G Star Studs Twill Jacket | $190 at Urban Outfitters

We love the architectural look of this streamlined motorcycle jacket. The front zipper is slightly offset and the two side pocket zippers are intentionally uneven for a distinctive look. If your style is a little off the mainstream, this jacket is for you!

Paul Frank Bomber Jacket | $140 at Urban Outfitters

This jacket feels very 1970s chic, but in a good way. We appreciate the contrast collar, the shoulder yoke, and the color (we heart Green). And hey, quilted jackets are Hot right now.

Members Only Jacket | $59 at Urban Outfitters

Classic Americana, and it can be Yours for well under $100! This coat stays true to the original, with the tabbed collar, soft elastic at the cuffs, hem, and chest pocket, side slit pockets, epaulets, and of course, the Members Only logo patch.

Return of the Friday Fashion Hotlist | 10.28.05

2005-10-28T06:54:00.000-07:00

No, we haven't forgotten about the Friday Fashion Hotlist, our weekly compilation of the cutest and coolest stuff Style Intelligence Report saw out there this week.

The falling temperatures make us long for a beautiful New England Autumn, and we're feeling particularly Prep School Chic this week.

For women...

Paige Zip-Up | $69.50 at Abercrombie and Fitch

Essentially a re-issue of a sweater Abercrombie designed for last Spring. Trisha owns this sweater in Heather Grey, but this time around, she's looking to buy the cream version. Or the chocolate brown. Or both. This sweater will help keep you warm during the Winter months, but it'll also be perfectly on-trend come Spring, what with its clean lines and neutral color.

And for men...

Tasty Waves Polo in Glengreen | $51.99 at Penguin Clothing

Let your inner nerd out! We love the tiny striping on this classic Penguin polo shirt. Remember, it's Good to be Nerdy. At least that's what Trisha told herself during Math Club meetings back in high school.

San Francisco International Fashion Week | Cari Borja

2005-10-27T22:29:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Background on Cari Borja: This Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces alum started her collection while getting her doctorate in anthropology in Berkeley. After her collection -- a compilation of more than 40 outfits -- was presented at fashion week, a very pregnant Cari stepped out to receive an overwhelming round of applause.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Key Takeaways: "I was inspired by my daughter," Borja told us after the show. "She's two years old and she dresses herself in [different] shapes and colors." Borja captured youth through her choice of colors for the collection, as well as with the playfulness of ruffled hems.

Silhouettes: Tiered ruffle babydoll dresses, ruffle cardigans with ruffled sleeves, hooded, ruffled camisoles. Did we mention ruffles?

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Accessories Report: Gold sandals on every model, dangly earrings, bunches of tangled necklaces and bracelets, gold necklaces with tassles. We also saw various-sized pom-poms made of yarn and worn in the manner of flower pins.

What's Wearable: A gold babydoll dress with tiered ruffles.

Photo Credit: Ling Kong

Cotton Inc. Fall/Winter 2007 Color Trends, Part Two

2005-10-27T08:15:00.000-07:00

	Expression This color theme is inspired by the youth market. Think of chenilles, plaids, and chunky, textured knits.
Triumph Think of Track Suits of the 1970s (doesn't that sound like a bad documentary?). Bold prints and patterns. Quilted fabrics and double layered fabrics.
	Destination Earthy color palette. Think of modernized batik fabrics. Perfect for bottomweight fabrics (e.g. fabrics for pants and skirts) with a soft hand, or feel. All about Authentic, Natural color, possibly with a Natural Wrinkled look.

Happy Holidays, and Happy Decorating

2005-10-26T08:25:00.000-07:00

For us at Style Intelligence Report, the holiday season is a time to celebrate...and a time to decorate.

As we're hosting a few holiday parties, we thought it was a good time to scout out some new additions to the apartment. So over the next couple of weeks, we're going to take a few "research" shopping trips to bring you the Best not only in fashion, but also in home decor!

Today, however, we have our rundown of the cutest and coolest home stuff at Anthropologie. See for yourself...

White Coral Lamp | $248 at Anthropologie

Just for the record, we loved coral Before it was a hot commodity among interior decorators.

Juldagen Cups | $32 at Anthropologie

We adore the old-fashioned shape of the cups, as well as the color scheme of the painted images.

Patisserie Candlestick | $28 at Anthropologie

We just love the elegant, sculpted lines creating the silhouette of this piece.

Gold Caspian (top) and Indochine Chrysanthemum (bottom) Pillows | $48 each at Anthropologie

Perfect as statement accent pieces for a neutral-colored chair or couch.

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | Elena Vasileva

2005-10-25T22:40:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Background on Elena Vasileva: As a child in Russia, Elena Vasileva learned to knit. A degree from FIDM and many years later, she proffers a line of knitwear made exclusively with yarn.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: This was by far the most creative collection we saw in the Fresh Faces show. Knitting's obviously not just for grannies anymore!

Color Palette: Space-dyed fabrics and burnt orange, pewter, lavender, burgundy, cream and taupe.

Silhouettes: Exaggerated puffy sleeves, super-short skirts, and, for once, a new take on enhancing the bosom: Rather than doing the traditional low-cut top, Vasileva decided to make full use of undercleavage.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Medusa hair and superlong extensions; knitted leg warmers; separate neck adornments

What's Wearable: Shrugs.

Is this the vision of a space-age cowgirl?

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | Rachel Mara

2005-10-25T22:24:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Background on Rachel Mara: Rachel Mara, which debuted in Spring 2002, looks to rare fabrics for inspiration. The result: a very wearable collection that feels both organic and feminine.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: The most wearable collection of the entire show. Indeed, we loved the fabric, most of which we couldn't identify from the audience--its texture added dimension to some of the otherwise ordinary clothing.

Color Palette: Neutrals, and the basic black and white.

Silhouettes: We spotted lots of bermuda shorts. (A possible trend for Spring 2006?)

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Long beaded necklaces, pearl chokers, string belts, gloves.

What's Wearable: Everything.

Is there too much going on here? You decide:

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Cotton Inc. Fall/Winter 2007 Color Trends, Part One

2005-10-25T07:31:00.000-07:00

	Intrigue This color theme is all about neutrals, with an added element of mystery. Think of James Bond and high tech finishes on fabrics. But these colors can also be found in classic fabrics such as textured tweeds.
Provocateur This color palette has strong red and yellow undertones, with a dark chocolate brown as a background accent color. Think of a return to Romance. The textured fabrics inspired by this palette will include pointelles, loose knits, jacquards, tweeds, and perhaps even fabrics with a polyurethane finish.
	Muse This color palette is soft and neutral. Fabrics will be heavily textured to make up for the neutral palette. Look for textured yarns with slubs, luxury blends of cotton-wool and cotton-silk, corduroy with wide wales (striping), pointelles, crochet knits, and metallic linings.

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | Hengst

2005-10-24T21:45:00.000-07:00

Background on Hengst: Susan Hengst's innovative line of clothing hails from the Mission district of San Francisco.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: As sexy mood music played, models sashayed down the runway in everything from pantsuits to pleather hot pants. Designer Hengst enjoys combining designs with unexpected fabrics--a windbreaker made of silk taffeta, for instance.

Color Palette: All colors--the bolder, the better.

Silhouettes: Arabian-inspired pants and culottes; shirred jersey separates; sporty windsuits.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Belts in gold rope or leather, cinched with a geode belt buckle; aviator sunglasses. Our favorite was a random gold-and-pewter stuffed pleather ball that looked like it might have been a pet's toy before it made the show.

What's Wearable: White wide-leg pants.

We definitely noticed these green pleather shorts, held together by a bow-tie:

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Autumn/Winter 2006 Color and Fabric

2005-10-24T06:38:00.000-07:00

Out of LA Textile comes four major trends for color and fabric:

Tundra

Colors: Greyed out colors, browns, blues.
Textures: Silky smooth fabrics, metallic finishes, brushed cottons and wools for a frosted look, botanical and crystal motifs for fabric prints.

Winter Blooms

Colors: Apple and emerald green, combined with blues and both light and dark purple tones.
Textures: Boucles and tweeds, especially in wool/silk and wool/mohair fabrications. Paper-like cutouts are achieved through laser cutting. Appliqués are botanical inspired, with leaves and flowers.

Indian Summer

Colors: Rich, autumnal tones of reds, golds, oranges, and leafy yellows are juxtaposed against dark smoky blues.
Textures: Folkloric prints are color yarn-dyed, patterned, and ombred with stripes. Patchworks and wood block prints will be seen along with subtly pinstriped denim and oversized lumberjack checks.

Woodland

Colors: Dark greens and blues combine with teal, ash grey, and a warm bronze.
Textures: Spongy surfaces reminiscent of moss, botanical-inspired fabric irregularities, and veining reminiscent of leaves, bark or wood grain show up in prints. Velvet is huge.

SF Int'l Fashion Week Cancelled?

2005-10-22T01:02:00.000-07:00

We're disappointed to report that SF International Fashion Week shows have been cancelled for today and tomorrow--only a small selection of shows will be held on Sunday.

Upon arrival at Terra Gallery, the new venue after the shows were moved from Fort Mason, we discovered that all Friday and Saturday shows had been cancelled. A man was handing out flyers with the updated event schedule for Sunday, with little explanation for what happened. We did, however, hear though the grapevine that the planning for the event was last minute--the model selection for Saturday's shows, for instance, was scheduled for today. Hearsay, but we wanted to pass along as much info as we could get.

On Sunday, six fashion shows are scheduled, with an afterparty sponsored by Haamonii Smooth, Blavod Black Vodka, Player's Xtreme, Rock Star Energy Drink, Selona Beauty, Factio Magazine, BlackBook Magazine, and TheAList.org.

We hope that we get to see the results of the designers' hard work...

Event Schedule | Sunday, October 23
1pm: Doors Open
2pm: Emerging Artists
3pm: Cari Borja
4pm: Joseph Domingo
5pm: Paul Monroe
6pm: Black Coffee
7pm: Anu Mahal
8pm: Afterparty

Carlin International Menswear Fall/Winter 2006 Report

2005-10-21T03:23:00.000-07:00

Carlin International's It list for menswear included:

Jackets with shawl collars,

Cropped blazers,

Faux T-shirt over button-down shirt layering,

Fancy jogging pants (really?),

Woven shirts with front knit panels,

Silkscreening on finished goods, such as sweaters and t-shirts, and

Corduroy jackets with utility detailing.

Carlin's menswear accessories report predicts:

Multipocket across-shoulder bags,

Cloth (especially woolen) messenger bags,

Fancy oxford shoes,

Fedoras with ribbon detailing,

Knit caps (we called this one!),

Hooded scarves, and

Poofy newsboy caps.

Coming Attractions

2005-10-20T00:47:00.000-07:00

We're back from LA Textile, where we got the scoop on upcoming trends, color forecasts, silhouettes, and more! There's exciting stuff in the works here...and *ahem* it's not limited to content.

Upcoming on Style Intelligence Report:

Carlin International's Menswear Trend Forecast for Fall/Winter 2006-2007.
Promostyl's Womenswear Trend Forecast for Fall/Winter 2006-2007.
Cotton Inc.'s Color Trends for Fall/Winter 2006-2007.
LA StreetStyle: Third Street Promenade. A warning--a preliminary lookover shows that the pictures are grainy-chic, the result of poor lighting from bad weather. Great trend info though, so we wanted to share.

Also--San Francisco International Fashion Week starts on Friday. Style Intelligence Report will be there, front and center, to give you the rundown from the runway!

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | Waraire Boswell

2005-10-19T21:20:00.000-07:00

Background on Waraire Boswell: This LA-based better menswear collection is one part preppy, one part sporty and one part dapper, making it a perfect lifestyle collection for men of all interests.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: The emphasis was on irregular choices: for instance, zip-up windbreakers with ties and jeans (casual, dressed-up and sporty all at once), or a suit paired with a tie of an unusual color.

Color Palette: Hues ran the gamut from peach to periwinkle to purple.

Silhouettes: Suits, blazers with jeans and button-down shirts with jeans and flip-flops.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Aviator sunglasses, flip-flops.

What's Wearable: The meticulously tailored dress shirts; button-down shirts with contrasting cuff patterns.

At the WB show, we saw some dashing suits (and models):

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | Paala

2005-10-18T19:50:00.000-07:00

Background on Paala: Former graphic designer Janna Stark created Paala, inspired by the idea that the same dresses can function for day as well as night.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: While feminine, the collection was not overtly sexy. Stark focused on girly details such as poufed and ruffled sleeves, flowy skirts made of printed chiffon and tie-neck tops.

Color Palette: Yellows, browns, greens, pinks and purples, many in used ombre patterns.

Silhouettes: Ruffled dresses made of chiffon with high-neck collars or styled off-the-shoulder; tie-neck silk tops with gaucho trousers. Many of the dresses had rows of button detail on the side and back.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Wild hair extensions.

What's Wearable: An off-the-shoulder dress made of sheer silk with a debossed floral print in crushed velvet. Who wouldn't feel pretty, oh so pretty?

Our favorite top from the show:

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces in Fashion | GENES

2005-10-17T20:52:00.000-07:00

Background on GENES: Combine San Francisco native Genes Sotto with former Zang Toi assistant designer Fleur Lidwine-Louis and what you get is GENES. The clothing line, which is based in New York, is designed with the sexy, urban woman in mind.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Key Takeaways: This collection, created by Genes Sotto and Fleur Lidwine-Louis, was a bit retro, a bit classic, a bit urban, and rather youthful all at the same time. Classic shapes make Genes highly wearable, while colorblock designs evoke an element of retro youthfulness.

Color Palette: Canary yellow, teal, turquoise and gold.

Silhouettes: Most of the collection was dedicated to lustrous silks, which weighed flatteringly on models in the form of circle skirts, ruched dresses and blouson tops.

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Accessories Report: Side ponytails, dewy faces and lace-up stilettos.

What's Wearable: Dresses covered in pailettes.

The latest way to show off a toned midsection:

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Fashion Notebook | Gen Art San Francisco's Fresh Faces in Fashion

2005-10-17T19:49:00.000-07:00

At the VIP reception before the show, San Francisco's finest dressed were busy working the lounge area & complimentary bar (courtesy of Beck's, X Rated Fusion Liqueur and Jean Marc XO Vodka.) Some of our favorite hipsters:

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Private-label dress on her/Paul Smith blazer on him

Photo Credit: Cary Wun

Arden B. shrug on her/Banana Republic shirt on him

At the post-party, revelry ensued, complete with DJ Diego Rockwell spinning, more liquor flowing, nail treatments from re:fresh day spa, massages and more. We can't wait for next year!

Fashion Notebook | Spotlight on San Francisco

2005-10-17T19:03:00.000-07:00

Style Intelligence Report is pleased to present local coverage of San Francisco fashion shows!

Thanks to our industrious photographer, Cary Wun, we’re reporting on the fashion trends that you’ll be seeing come Spring 2006.

True to our mission of providing an intelligent look at fashion trends, we’ll be analyzing the fashion shows for trends—in silhouette, color, and garment classifications. And because of our strong belief in Real Style for Real People, we’ll be sorting out the runway-only looks from the wearable ones to give you insight into what you will actually want to be wearing come spring.

Ideas? Suggestions? Leave us a comment, or email us at styleintelligence@gmail.com.

Spring 2006 Trend: Hardware Detailing

2005-10-17T08:41:00.000-07:00

Hardware at United Bamboo, Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Dolce and Gabbana Menswear.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: Grommets, metal zippers, D rings, snaps, and buckles have found their way to traditional garments ranging from dresses, sweaters, and blouses to pants and skirts. The hardware look gives a bit of an edge to otherwise conservative (read: normal) looks, and really turns up the heat on more risqué garments.

For maximum wearability, keep the metal pieces small and on sections of the body that you want to highlight. If you have a great waistline, for example, wear metal on your belt. And if you love your shoulderline, look for hardware trimmings on or near the shoulder area. For a fresh look, try D rings and buckles in unexpected places.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: This trend has been bubbling up for at least a year. We even made note of hardware detailing at Armani Exchange back in April. And hardware studded bags were a ubiquitous accessory this past season. Look for this trend to continue as a counter to the pretty, overly feminine look dominating the runways.

Boston StreetStyle | Harvard Square Bag Report

2005-10-14T08:37:00.000-07:00

Trend Alert: Printed Bags

Trend Alert: Oversized Bags

Trend Alert: Mini Messenger Bags

Trend Alert: Man Messenger Bags and Oversized Bags for Women

Trend Alert: Hardware Detailing on Bags

Boston StreetStyle | Harvard Square Accessories Report

2005-10-13T07:35:00.000-07:00

Trend Report: Plaid Shoes, Oversized Bags, and Colorful Umbrellas

Trend Report: Fedora Hats and Belts with Hardware Detailing

Trend Report: Sport Sneakers and Belts with Hardware Detailing

Boston StreetStyle | Harvard Square Trend Report

2005-10-12T17:53:00.000-07:00

Trend Alert: Printed Fabrics

Trend Alert: Shorts (Huge on the Spring 06 Runways)

Trend Alert: Natural, Neutral Colors

Trend Alert: Knee-length Skirts (especially in White!)

Trend Alert: Cropped Pants and Oversized Bags

Spring 2006 Trend: Knit Caps

2005-10-12T08:42:00.000-07:00

Knit Caps at Burberry, Duckie Brown, and L.A.M.B.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: This season’s knit cap goes beyond the traditional urbanwear beanie. With detailing such as an oversized shape, and bills in contrast fabrications, the knit cap exemplifies Spring 2006’s focus on eclecticism.

Show your individuality by pairing your urban-styled knit cap with something other than casualwear—perhaps an uber-feminine outfit.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Early. Knit caps are a basic part of one’s wardrobe, but this season’s more eclectic styles merit a trend classification of their own.

Spring 2006 Trend: Fedora Hats

2005-10-11T07:41:00.000-07:00

Fedora Hats at Behnaz Sarafpour, L.A.M.B., and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: The menswear-inspired fedora hat provides a nice counterpart to the predominantly pretty, feminine looks out on the runway. And for men, it provides a gentlemanly accessory for otherwise casual outfits. On the streets, we’ve seen a few Fedora Fashion Formulas for women that we adore:

Fashion Formula 1: Fedora + Cropped Sweater + Tank + Shorts.

Fashion Formula 2: Fedora + Lacy Camisole + Pinstriped Pants.

Fashion Formula 3: Fedora + Ruffled Blouse + Embellished Belt + Jeans.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Early. This season’s focus on eclecticism has spurred a renewed interest in accessories, and fedora hats are one of fashion’s hottest hat styles.

Boston StreetStyle | Newbury Street Accessories Report

2005-10-10T08:03:00.001-07:00

Trend Alert: Colorful Umbrellas, Oversized Bags, and Printed Bags

Trend Alert: Two-tone, Preppy Tote Bags (and Flip Flops!)

Trend Alert: Striped Sport Sneakers for Men

Trend Alert: Oversized Bags and Sport Sneakers for Women

Trend Alert: Oversized Sunglasses

Designer Denim: What's it worth?

2005-10-08T08:19:00.000-07:00

We got a question from a reader named Steph: At what dollar amount are there are diminishing returns on having your butt look great in a pair of jeans?

Susannah thinks that there are diminishing returns after $200 or $250, but she notes that this figure is at once completely arbitrary and wholly personal. Trisha places her personal estimate at a slightly lower figure--maybe $175 to 200ish.

We could go all Econ 101 on this and talk about percentages of disposable income, because where diminishing returns hit would vary with household income level. Maybe for you a pair of designer jeans is worth 5% of your monthly paycheck. Maybe it's 10%. Or maybe it's 2%.

But does this help? It's true that it's a very personal question, and where these diminishing returns hit depends on many factors, a few of which could be: household income, affinity for luxury, and how difficult it is for you to find a pair of jeans with an excellent fit. One person may say $225 is the limit, another person, $500...and yet another person may value designer denim to the price tag of $1000.

Our rule of thumb, though, is that a pair of jeans is too expensive when a glance at the price tag brings a frown to your face.

Your thoughts?

Spring 2006 Trend: Trenchcoats

2005-10-07T19:18:00.000-07:00

Trenchcoats at Doo Ri, Tuleh, and Michael Kors.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: As we noted for double breasted styles, the petite, the full figured, the curvy, the broad shouldered, and those with a full bust should wear trenchcoats with caution. Oversized lapels can overwhelm small frames and emphasize width in the shoulder area.

Belted trenchcoats can work wonders on boyish figures, as they help give the waistline some definition. Those with narrow shoulders will also be flattered by the trenchcoat's horizontal emphasis at the shoulder.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Early. Last Spring, cropped jackets and single-breasted styles were all the rage. Now it’s time for the double-breasted trenchcoat to shine.

Friday Fashion Hotlist | 10.7.05

2005-10-07T08:44:00.000-07:00

Issue XIII of the Friday Fashion Hotlist: a compilation of some of the cutest and coolest stuff Style Intelligence Report saw out there this week.

For women...

Foley + Corinna Shirred Silk Jersey
Corset Top in teal $286 at ShopBop

We can't imagine any woman wearing this and not looking like a Greek Goddess. Not to mention that it also happens to be perfectly on trend.

And for men...

Yoko Devereaux Fleece Blazer NSP
in Black $240 at Active Endeavors

For the man who can't compromise comfort for style, herein lies an incredibly happy medium.

Spring 2006 Trend: Multi Tiered Styles

2005-10-06T08:31:00.000-07:00

Multi Tiered Styles at Derek Lam, Doo Ri, and Jenni Kayne.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium High.

Wearability Factor: High.

How to Wear It: This season’s take on tiered styles is less voluminous—it’s less of the peasant skirt look and more of a modern take on the dresses of the 1920s. Furthermore, this season, tiers can be found not only on skirts, but also on tops. Indeed, the multi-tiered look appears fresher on tops, as evidenced by Doo Ri’s tiered halter (above, center).

Tiers are extremely wearable, as evidenced by their massive popularity earlier this year. Tiered tops can cover up a larger tummy, and voluminous tiered skirts are almost universally flattering. This season’s thinner tiered skirt silhouette, however, works best on tall women and those without extremely wide hips.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Late. Tiered skirts were all the rage for Spring and Summer 2005. We’re a little tired of the look, to be completely honest.

Trendscape: Tie-Neck Tops

2005-10-05T09:15:00.000-07:00

There's something about these tops that we're drawn to. Perhaps it's the fact that it's put together, but not too put together. Or nice, but also a little suggestive (isn't the demure bow just waiting to be untied?) Or sophisticated--like wearing a blouse with a stylish scarf--yet requiring far less effort.

Or maybe all of the above. Yeah, that's it.

Inspiration: Maggie Gyllenhaal in Secretary

Photo Credit: Detroit News Online

Mason Secretary Blouse $265 at blaec

Cashmere Tie-Neck Sweater in Plum Swirl $128 at Banana Republic

Stretch Merino Tie-Neck Sweater in Azalea $39.99 at JCrew

Elie Tahari 'Clover' Blouse $94.99 at Bluefly

Spring 2006 Trend: Horizontal Stripes

2005-10-05T06:41:00.000-07:00

Horizontal Stripes at Tuleh, Carolina Herrera, and Ralph Lauren.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium High.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: Horizontal stripes are showing up on the runways as a remnant of Spring 2005's Nautical trend. Avoid wide horizontal stripes that cut your body into sections, making you look shorter and/or wider than you actually are. For maximum figure flattery, opt for thin horizontal striping. Excellent for visual interest, and the small scale of the print doesn't actually make you look any wider.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Like Neutral Colors, the Nautical influence behind the Horizontal Stripe trend is more of a classic than a true trend. Horizontal stripes have been big on the fashion scene for a couple of years now--think of Sarah Jessica Parker's Carrie Bradshaw in "An American Girl in Paris."

Spring 2006 Trend: Double Breasted Styles

2005-10-04T16:14:00.000-07:00

Double Breasted Styles at Bill Blass, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: For the petite, the full figured, the curvy, the broad shouldered, and those with a full bust, steer clear of double breasted styles. Their strong horizontal detailing emphasizes the shoulderline and can make you look wider (and shorter) than you actually are.

Double breasted styles, however, can work for boyish figures, as they echo the straight up-and-down frame. Those with narrow shoulders will also find double breasted styles flattering, as they visually widen the shoulderline.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Double breasted styles are experiencing a resurgence in popularity, likely due to the influence of the Peacoat, a key look from Fall 2005. It's definitely not new, but we should be seeing this style in various incarnations on the runways for seasons to come.

October 2005: What's In, and What's Out

2005-10-04T07:38:00.000-07:00

We're all over...
Grecian Styling
(Pictured: LaROK Grecian Drape Top)

Why: It's easy to wear, and ever-so-romantic
for those hot nights out.

We're all over...
Capelets
(Pictured: Gap Herringbone Capelet)

Why: They look incredible when paired with other
of-the-moment classics like oversized shades and tailored gauchos.

We're So over:
Tiered Skirts

Why:
We don't care if it's an Indian summer -- The Prairie Look,
the Peasant Look, the Gypsy Look et al are all So Way Over.

We're So over:
Overpriced Denim

Why: $100...$200...$300...$400...
We declare: The buck stops here!

We're So over:
Shearling/Fur/Fur-inspired Boots

Why: Down Under, they're worn as house slippers. Enough said.

Trendscape: Quilting

2005-10-03T09:00:00.000-07:00

Spotted all over the streets of San Francisco: Quilted Jackets. Apparently Marc Jacobs isn't the only one obsessed with quilting (see his entire line of current handbags). Fashion-savvy, street-smart downtowners also happen to think it's perfectly on trend, too.

Inspiration: Chanel's 2.55 Handbag

Photo Credit: Shefinds.com

Kenneth Cole Reaction Quilted Down
Short Jacket in Brown | $89.95 at Bluefly

Delman Worth-Cs | $248.95 at Zappos

MARC by Marc Jacobs Quilted Velvet Shoulder
Bag in Apple Red | $198 at Neiman Marcus

Burberry Edenson Quilted Jacket
in Garnet | $375 at Neiman Marcus

Quilted Ballet Flat
in Olive | $19.95 at American Eagle

Las Vegas Bag in Black | $185 at MZ Wallace

Spring 2006 Trend: Belts

2005-10-03T06:49:00.000-07:00

Belts at BCBG, Michael Kors, and Bill Blass.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium High.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: Belts are a great way to give your waist some extra definition--key if you have a boyish figure or have an undefined waistline. However, steer clear of belts if you want to direct attention away from your midsection. Those that are full figured or have a tummy will want to opt for beltless styles, despite the trendiness of the look.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: With the return to higher waisted styles, belts are back in fashion. Another reason for the resurgence of the belt is the individuality it affords the wearer--fashion's emphasis on eclecticism favors accessories. The movement towards belted styles is still relatively new this season, so expect to see more of them in the next few seasons.

Shopping Guide: The Best Men's Peacoats

2005-10-01T22:01:00.000-07:00

As the ultimate fall translation of last spring's nautical trend, the peacoat is as fashionable for men as it is for women.

Though we searched high and low to find the Best peacoats for men, we ended up finding all our favorites from one retailer. Yoox, a purveyor of international designer fashions, gave us everything from the classic mid-length minimalist peacoat to a trendy embroidered and printed version.

Costume National Homme Peacoat | $644 at Yoox

The Classic: Mid-length fitted silhouette, wide lapel, and slanted welt pockets on the torso. Perfect for the man with timeless taste.

Diesel Peacoat | $131 at Yoox

The Individualist: Gabardine jacket with padded interior and print and embroidery detailing.

Emporio Armani Peacoat | $508 at Yoox

The Formal: Straight silhouette, minimalist detailing.

R.E.D. Valentino Peacoat | $342 at Yoox

The Fashion-Forward: Mid-length straight silhouette, shaped yoke, mock neckline with button fastenings.

D&G Peacoat | $402 at Yoox

The Gentleman: Fitted silhouette with center rear vent and classic three pocket detailing.

Spring 2006 Trend: Neutral Colors

2005-09-30T07:49:00.000-07:00

Neutral Colors at Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, and Derek Lam.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: High.

How to Wear It: Spring 2006 was reminiscent of mid 1990s Calvin Klein in its bringing of neutral colors back to the fashion forefront. White, black, grey, beige, tan, and sand became dominant colors--rather than supporting players complementing more vibrant shades. Whites look exceedingly fresh, albeit hard to wear while keeping clean (Scotchgard to the rescue!). Blacks continue their reign of popularity from the Fall 2005 season, though the color is more than a bit harsh for springtime. Shades of grey are perhaps the most wearable, and light grey looks particularly stylish with orange and yellow shades. Sand, which proved to be one of the most important colors of the season, is easy not only to wear alone, but also to combine with other colors. Pair sand with oranges, yellows, and greens.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Neutral colors have provided the color foundation for wardrobes since the beginning of fashion history--this trend should truly be classified as a classic. However, this season really highlighted the possibility in working with a neutral palette, a complete reversal from the vivid color imagery from the last few years.

Spring 2006 Trend: 1960s Innocence

2005-09-29T07:26:00.000-07:00

1960s Innocence at Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson, and Derek Lam.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: The youthquake and innocence of the Swinging 60s was evoked by babydoll dresses, tent dresses, high-waisted sheath and A-line looks, Jackie O style oversized sunglasses, colorblocking, cutouts, and the elegantly oversized overcoat. Keep your look modern by including no more than two (and preferably just one) of these elements in any given look. Remember, it's 2005--not 1965.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Fashion's eternal fascination with decades past, combined ith the new decade's push for eclecticism and individuality means that we'll be seeing modern takes on 1960s styles for some time. The 60s aren't really anything new--this trend resurfaced on the runway in a big way for Fall 2003 with Marc Jacobs' colorful mod-inspired collection.

Spring 2006 Trend: Waistline Emphasis

2005-09-28T08:21:00.000-07:00

Waistline Emphasis at Betsey Johnson, Carolina Herrera, and Jenni Kayne.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: Medium High.

How to Wear It: Get the look with thick belts, yokes, and other forms of waistline detailing. This trend is great for boyish body types, as it helps to create the illusion of a waistline. Avoid this trend if you have a large tummy, as it will direct attention towards your midsection.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: While the idea of focusing on one's waistline is definitely not new, it's been given a new lease on life this season. We expect to see this trend at least for the next few seasons.

Spring 2006 Trend: Preppy Minimalism

2005-09-27T23:30:00.000-07:00

Preppy Minimalism at Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs, and Carolina Herrera.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: High.

Wearability Factor: High.

How to Wear It: Embrace your inner East Coast preppy side with cardigans (both shrunken and oversized), layered pullovers, tees, and sport shirts, sweatercoats, and vests. Preppy Minimalism is easy to wear and friendly to all body types.

For a bit of flair, mix up your accessories. Pair a dressy outfit with casual flip flops, or match your polo-and-shorts look with a statement necklace.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: This trend should truly be classified as a classic--think of Ralph Lauren's timeless style.

Spring 2006 Trend: Bright Yellow

2005-09-27T08:28:00.000-07:00

Bright Yellow from Betsey Johnson, Behnaz Sarafpour, and United Bamboo.
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: Mimic the warmth of the sun with the addition of bright yellow to your wardrobe. The color looks especially fresh paired with orange, white, or a spring green. Fair skin tones should steer clear of pale yellows and go with a more vibrant shade so as not to look washed out. Beware of yellow on Asian skin; choose darker or more vibrant shades. On darker skin tones, however, yellows of all shades are extremely flattering.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Shades of yellow have been on the fashion scene over the last few seasons, but this season's emphasis on the color reflects a larger move towards more pastel shades.

Spring 2006 Trend: Floral Prints

2005-09-26T08:15:00.000-07:00

Floral Prints from Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera, and Tuleh.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Importance Factor: Medium.

Wearability Factor: Medium.

How to Wear It: Large floral prints work well for statement pieces--a breathtaking dress, a fun tote bag, or a stunning skirt. For best results, keep these large floral prints in two, or maximum three, colors. For smaller floral prints, you can afford to include more colors. Smaller prints also tend to work on more petite women, as they don't overwhelm small frames.

Where in Trend Lifecycle: Early, though this floral trend is a logical outgrowth of fashion's larger movement towards natural colors, fabrics, and prints.

Emmys 2005: Style Intelligence Report's Worst Dressed List

2005-09-25T16:13:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: CalendarLive.com

Sandra Oh in Nina Ricci.
Why it was a poor choice: Spades, anyone? With her pointy-toed shoes, red-and-white background and the harshly geometric lines of her dress, Sandra Oh looks like she belongs on the face of a queen of diamonds playing card.

Photo Credit: MSN Entertainment

Tess Smith in L.A. designer Sylvia Danese.
Why it was a poor choice: This dress is missing a lot of things, most notably a touch of class. Truly provocative dressing always leaves some room for the imagination.

Photo Credit: E! Online

Debra Messing in Elie Saab.
Why it was a poor choice:We think Debra Messing is one of the most naturally beautiful women in Hollywood. But a brown curtain to the Emmys? Even Hollywood's funniest darling can't do justice to that.

Photo Credit: E! Online

Charlize Theron in Chanel.
Why it was a poor choice: Ugh. Enough with the 1920s-themed outfits already! We've seen you pull it off already, it's tired and overdone, and that beading adds another 20 pounds to your figure.

Photo Credit: People

Paula Abdul in Kevan Hall.
Why it was a poor choice: Paula has made one fashion mistake after another. Quite frankly, we think she resembles a bit of an Elvis impersonator sans chest hair.

Emmys 2005: Style Intelligence Report's Best Dressed List

2005-09-24T13:45:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: InStyle.com

Eva Longoria in Angel Sanchez.
Why it was a good choice: Dress color is crucial. Eva's
coral gown was the perfect way to highlight her St. Tropez glow.

Photo Credit: InStyle.com

Halle Berry in Emanuel Ungaro.
Why it was a good choice: The gown's regal hue is perfect for the occasion, and the strapless sweetheart neckline emphasizes her feminine shoulders.

Photo Credit: CalendarLive.com

Marcia Cross in Elie Saab.
Why it was a good choice: Emerald
brings out Marcia's green eyes and auburn hair.

Photo Credit: InStyle.com

Jennifer Love Hewitt in Dolce & Gabbana.
Why it was a good choice: This classically flattering dress is predictably JLH, but if anyone can pull off dressing like a certain Hepburn, it's her.

Photo Credit: InStyle.com

Mariska Hargitay in Carolina Herrera.
Why it was a good choice: Mariska looks ten years younger in a
sexy, vibrant orange gown and her hair down in sexy waves.

Photo Credit: CalendarLive.com

Star Jones in Marc Bouwer.
Why it was a good choice: Center ruching in velvet
works on Star -- it accentuates curves in all the right places.

Fashion Week Notebook | Calvin Klein

2005-09-24T11:25:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Ethereal 1960s chic for the modern woman. Some looks evoked the ladylike Jackie O, while others appeared more fit for Twiggy. Graceful fashions for the modern elegant.

Color Palette: Predominantly white and cream, with black, beige, and light grey. Jolts of color were added with bright blues, greens, and yellows.

Silhouettes: High waistlines, babydoll dresses, and A-line shapes. Necklines were either high on the neck or strappy and low. Dresses were beautifully draped and tailored, and many featured the idea of controlled volume. Coats were oversized, and they were matched with Jackie O-inspired embellished sunglasses.

Accessories Report: The notable accessory of the show was the embellished sunglasses.

What’s Wearable: Almost everything. We loved the 60s style big coats, the babydoll dresses, and the unexpected patterned fabric that was integral to the show’s success.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: A particularly blousy dress with an exaggerated lapel. It even made the model look chubby.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Channeling Jackie O:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | J Mendel

2005-09-24T10:55:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: While much of this collection catered to the gala dinner set--J Mendel's primary clientele--it also featured unusual pairings (shearling with sheer pleats) and cocktail dresses with barely-there layers that will no doubt show up on A-list celebrities this spring.

Color Palette: Ice Queen colors--pearly pastel blue, pink and purple--and beiges.

Silhouettes: Fitted jackets with dress shorts or flowy skirts; wispy gowns; shearling jackets; ruffled column dresses.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: With barely-there dresses, skin was the accessory of choice.

What's Wearable: The singular suit of the collection, a brocade, half-sleeve skirt suit.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What's Not Wearable: Tank tops with randomly attached fur.

We love the beautiful lines of this two-piece top:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Derek Lam

2005-09-23T21:05:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: While Lam is considered one of fashion's fastest-rising stars, we were disappointed with this boring collection. We expected to see something new and exciting, and what we got was a lot of childlike dresses in dowdy shapes.

Color Palette: Lam's collection was focused on white, with black and neutrals as supporting colors.

Silhouettes: Babydoll dresses and shift dresses. We didn't know what to think about this Overgrown-Easter-Sunday-Dress look:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: Our favorite accessory was the fresh-faced makeup seen on Lam's runway models. They possessed a dewy, youthful look.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What's Wearable: Lam's fortuny pleats--they were one of the few highlights of this collection.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What's Not Wearable: Babydoll dresses. We don't want to revisit the early nineties.

A dress or a nightgown?

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Emporio Armani Menswear

2005-09-23T19:27:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: For his Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio moved into slightly feminine territory with gauzy scarves and see-through shirts, along with deep-v tunics and wrap shirts. Interesting on the runway, but these items feel more aesthetic than commercial.

Color Palette: Along with beige, white, brown, grey, and black, the collection featured a purple-tinged blue, purple-tinged grey, as well as bits of purple and orange.

Silhouettes: Loosely fitted shapes. Mostly straight-legged pants and shorts, with close-fitting tops. Jackets and blazers added to the slight looseness of fit.

Accessories Report: Skinny ties, gauzy scarves, sunglasses with a thick nose bridge, and dogtag-inspired necklaces. Right on trend, Armani played up the importance of the waist with belts and waistline detailing on pants.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Blazers with slightly more cropped sleeves, a nod to geek chic. Utility inspired jackets, drawstring pants, and the on-trend double-breasted jackets.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: See-through shirts, wrap shirts, and unstructured, drapey pants (unless they’re for sleepwear).

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Emphasis on Waist

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Style Intelligence Report covers the 2005 Emmy Awards

2005-09-23T17:46:00.000-07:00

Though we've been busy Obsessively covering Fashion Week, we haven't forgotten about last weekend's 2005 Emmy Awards.

Check back this weekend for our Best Dressed and Worst Dressed lists, featuring not only photos of the celebs, but also our reasoning for why the looks worked...or not!

Fashion Week Notebook | Gucci Menswear

2005-09-23T08:38:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Gucci went prep-school chic for Spring 2006. Cardigans, pullovers, and blazers, all far far away from the playboy image created by Tom Ford.

Color Palette: Black, white and cream dominated the collection. Shades of grey, beige, and touches of red accompanied these base neutrals.

Silhouettes: Tailored, fitted silhouettes. Layering played a key role in this collection, with multiple tops being layered over one another. Key items included pullovers, cardigans, double breasted blazers, sport shirts and drapey slacks.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: Attack of the Man Tote. Belts were also big with this collection, a nod to this season’s emphasis on the waistline. Suitcase trunks were reminiscent of old-school travel.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. The preppy cardigans and pullovers from Fall 05 will still be stylish come spring, albeit in lighter colors.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Tank Top (unless you’re an Italian gangster). The Man Tote was too feminine for the average male.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Double Breasted is Back!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Dolce and Gabbana Menswear

2005-09-22T23:28:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: The flashy, luxury meets rebel collection could only have come from Dolce & Gabbana. Our take? One part Italian mobster, one part party animal. Key looks included skinny ties, screenprinted tees of vintage ads, and hardware detailing.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Color Palette: Dark, with black and grey dominating. Blue denim, white, crimson, olive, and beige lighten the palette.

Silhouettes: Skinny, fitted suits, hoodies layered under blazers, fitted motorcycle jackets, cardigans, drooping pants, knee-length cutoffs, and boxing shorts.

Accessories Report: Oversized sunglasses, dogtags, bucket hats, and beanies.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: We like the hoodie-under blazer look, though it’s not new. We also love the cropped motorcycle jackets.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Floral patterns in a tough-guy look. Also, keep the boxing shorts in the ring.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

White suits look just as fresh now as they did last spring!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Burberry Menswear

2005-09-22T18:18:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Utility-inspired clothing fit for a jet-setting dandy. We loved the color combinations: mint green with saffron yellow, olive green with burnt orange, and a yellowed olive paired with salmon.

Color Palette: Neutrals and mainly pastels. Rose, mint, saffron, and burnt orange mixed with black, white, cream, and shades of beige and brown.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Closely tailored button-down shirts, snug sweaters, and belted jackets topped straight-legged pants and shorts.

Accessories Report: Caps, scarves, weekender totes, over the shoulder sling bags, and skinny bags. For utility, we like the weekender totes. For style, we Adore the skinny bags.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We loved the belted trenchcoats, fitted tops and jackets, as well as the prep-school meets James Bond look.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Short shorts (but you knew that one already). The only other questionable theme was the patchwork look.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Trenchcoat:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Duckie Brown

2005-09-22T07:56:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Classic sportswear pieces in mainly solid colors. Patterns added for visual interest included dots, plaids, and stripes.

Color Palette: Red, peach, blue, coral, turquoise and green added eye-catching color to a base of black, white, grey, and beige.

Silhouettes: Mainly fitted shapes and layered looks. Some pieces (like this cardigan) were purposely oversized.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Accessories Report: Knit caps, sport sneakers, and the Man Tote.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was comprised of wearable looks. In particular, we liked the ¾ length coats, jackets with slightly shrunken arms, tuxedo shirts, and the pants creased just so.

What’s Not Wearable: Vinyl clothing. It may be functional if it’s raining, but even then, just get an umbrella. Also, the man tote looked awfully feminine.

The Layering Trend Continues:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | D Squared Menswear

2005-09-21T08:08:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Dean and Dan Caten gave us their vision of an urban cowboy for their Spring 2006 collection. Mixing high and low elements, the twins adapted classic western wear for a more metropolitan environment.

Color Palette: Besides black and white, the Caten brothers focused on beige, browns, blues, yellows and reds.

Silhouettes: Close-fitting tops and bottoms. Straight legged pants, tailored suit jackets, body-hugging vests.

Accessories Report: Big belt buckles, bandanas, suspenders, skinny ties, shrunken ties, aprons, skinny belts, and the obligatory Cowboy hats.

What’s Wearable: Shrunken jackets, skinny ties and belts, suspenders, straight legged pants, and the combination of high and low elements (e.g. a tuxedo shirt with distressed jeans).

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Tread cautiously with the bandanas and the shrunken ties. And leave the aprons at home. As for oversized belt buckles—if the buckle is larger than your wallet, it’s too big!

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Suspenders

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Alexander McQueen Menswear

2005-09-21T07:58:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Alexander McQueen’s collection started off as slightly subversive and preppy/nautical-inspired, but by the end of the show, McQueen had moved all the way over to the land of the avant garde, with sequins, feathers, and capes.

Color Palette: White, Beige, Grey, Gold, Red, Purple, Blue and Black.

Silhouettes: Three piece suits, turned up shirt cuffs, knee-length shorts, double breasted jackets, man boleros, capes. McQueen showed both fitted, tailored looks and slightly more blousy garments.

Accessories Report: Baseball caps, sailor hats, socks pulled up to the knee, untied ties as scarves, belts, ties as belts, rope belts, flip flops, short ties.

What’s Wearable: Turned up shirt cuffs, ¾ length jackets (almost universally flattering on men, especially when tailored thin), ties as belts (seen this one before, but it’s quirky yet wearable),untied ties as scarves, three piece suits.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Bolero, Sequins and Feathers. Also stay away from capes unless you’re [insert the action hero of your choice here].

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Trend Alert: Horizontal Stripes:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani

2005-09-20T18:34:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Eclectic collection touching on a number of themes from past seasons: ethnic & embellishment, military, and nautical, to name a few.

Color Palette: Neutrals were accompanied by yellows, oranges, mint green, and forest green.

Silhouettes: The big story here was belted looks. Gwen Stefani showed a number of long straight skirts on dresses, shorts hitting at the knee.

Accessories Report: Belts were huge. Also important were slouchy boots, belted boots, knit caps, and fedoras.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Wearable: We appreciated Stefani’s colorblocked drapey dresses in particular.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: See through dresses (clearly). Or being covered in logos from head to toe. Stefani’s collection was styled theatrically for dramatic effect—if you try any of these outfits head to toe, you’ll likely come off looking more like a fashion victim than fashion forward.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Interesting fabric manipulation:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Cloak (Menswear)

2005-09-20T08:30:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Faux formal collection mixing high and low elements. Perfect for the urban man with a bit of an edge.

Color Palette: Purely neutrals, and predominantly black, with touches of white, beige, and greys.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Skinny, straight-legged pants and shorts paired with tailored jackets, shirts, and skinny ties.

Accessories Report: Boots!

What’s Wearable: Great detailing on the jackets, and they’re a natural addition to any stylish man’s closet. We also liked the double breasted cardigan sweater for an edgy take on prep school chic.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What’s Not Wearable: Jacket + Dress Shirt + Tie + Shorts. It’s a bit extreme for the normal man.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Nothing turns a look around quite like a ¾ length jacket:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Brian Reyes

2005-09-20T07:44:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Detail-oriented sportswear collection featuring classic silhouettes in neutral colors.

Color Palette: Neutrals such as white, grey, beige, brown, and black, were interspersed with bright primary colors: red, yellow, and blue.

Silhouettes: Mostly fitted skirts, skinny pants and shorts, with a couple of more voluminous skirts thrown in for good measure. On top, fitted bodices alternated with slightly more blousy styles, in line with the controlled volume theme.

What’s Wearable: Absolutely everything. Reyes didn’t stray far from classic shapes.

All About the Details:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | BCBG

2005-09-19T21:47:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Max Azria combined elements of minimalism with the exuberant embellishment of the last few seasons. Our favorite runway looks included a Marilyn Monroe style halter dress with a full skirt, and a blousy top over short shorts with a sweatercoat coverup.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Color Palette: Neutrals included black, white, beige, and greyed out colors. Azria added to this neutral palette primary colors—red, blue, yellow, as well as purple and gold.

Silhouettes: Key trends out of this show included controlled volume on blouses, skirts, and even shorts, short shorts, wrap styles, and horizontal stripe detailing.

What’s Wearable: Blousy tops tend to be forgiving, and we love that Azria’s tops aren’t shapeless.

What’s Not Wearable: Be careful with wide horizontal stripes, even if you’re Amazingly Tall. More petite women, in particular, should opt for narrower lines that don’t visually cut the body into sections.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

On another note, short shorts should only be worn with toned legs.

We Love Controlled Volume:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

New York Fashion Week may be over...

2005-09-19T20:02:00.000-07:00

...but Style Intelligence Report's coverage is far from complete.

Check back regularly this week for more of our signature fashion show reviews--and much more complete coverage of the menswear collections, as well as detailed posts on the biggest Spring 2006 Fashion Trends!

Fashion Week Notebook | Monique Lhuillier

2005-09-19T08:10:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: A ladylike collection of eveningwear and cocktail-appropriate dresses. Lhuillier’s collection had an old-world type of charm--very pretty, but not overly embellished. While she clearly follows in the footsteps of Vera Wang, some of her cocktail numbers channeled Oscar de la Renta.

Color Palette: Neutrals (white, black, and shades of beige) were accompanied by yellow, lilac, sky blue, moss, and fuschia.

Silhouettes: Cocktail wear featured fitted bodices and mostly A-line skirts. Lhuillier showed bodices in three classic shapes: high-necked, strapless, and bra-top styles. Evening gowns ranged from drapey bias-cut styles to poufy voluminous looks.

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We’ll no doubt be seeing some of these looks on the red carpet.

More specifically, we’re a big fan of the A-line skirt’s almost universal figure flattery. Also, Lhuillier’s monochromatic high-necked styles will be flattering to petite women for their elongated vertical line.

What’s Not Wearable: Watch your step in Lhuillier’s poufy evening gowns. For tall girls only.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Channeling Oscar:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Donna Karan

2005-09-17T11:46:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Karan's collection was inspired by art, such as Pollack abstract expressionism and Mondrian colors. She also experimented with combining volume and strong, geometric shapes.

Color Palette: Black, red, yellow, beige, brown, navy.

Silhouettes: Pleated, full skirts; dresses with tulip skirts; cropped jackets; jackets tied with bows, empire waists.

Accessories Report: Dramatic cat-eye makeup, hairbows, and oversized necklaces of linking geometric shapes:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What's Wearable: Deconstructed jackets and cocktail dresses.

What's Not Wearable: The oversized, overly geometric necklaces.

This collection was all about volume:

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Fashion Week Notebook | Ralph Lauren

2005-09-17T11:31:00.000-07:00

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Lots of Nautica + Military + Bohemian = Pirates?

Color Palette: Navy and white, grey, gold, maroon.

Silhouettes: Military jackets with nautical-striped tanks; mermaid skirts, both long and short; skirt suits; ruffles.

Accessories Report: The collection was not complete without the necessary accessories: aviators, solid gold and netted bags, skullcaps, beaded necklaces and long, dangly earrings.

What's Wearable: Every individual piece in this collection. However, we spotted a perfect skirt suit for work.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

What's Not Wearable: Skinny pinstripes with wide pinstripes, unless you want to look like a candy striper.

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Best composition of both formal and casual:

Photo Credit: NY Metro